Anum Uzair is a remarkable forensic scientist, mountaineer, runner, and mother, who’s pushing boundaries and setting records in the world of mountaineering.
Anum led an all-women expedition team striving to summit K2, the world’s second-highest peak at 8611 meters. She is passionate about representing Pakistani women and blazing a trail for future mountaineers. Discover her journey and preparation for this extraordinary endeavor in an exclusive interview with Mindful.
1. Congratulations on your incredible achievement! What inspired you to pursue high-altitude mountaineering, and how did your journey begin?
My journey into high-altitude mountaineering began as a natural extension of my passion for outdoor adventure and physical challenges. Growing up, I was always drawn to the beauty and power of nature, but it was the inner drive to push my limits that led me to pursue something as demanding as mountaineering.
It all started with smaller treks and hiking trips, where I discovered a deep connection with the mountains. The idea of summiting an 8,000-meter peak was both terrifying and thrilling, but I knew I had to try. Manaslu was my first major summit, and it was there that I realized it wasn’t just about reaching the top — it was the entire lifestyle of training, discipline, and perseverance that inspired me to continue. Each summit teaches me something new, not just about the mountains, but about myself.
2. What was the most challenging part of your expedition to Broad Peak, both physically and mentally?
The most challenging part of my Broad Peak expedition was battling the extreme altitude. Physically, every step felt like a huge effort, and mentally, staying focused in such harsh conditions was tough. The thin air, freezing temperatures, and constant fatigue push your body and mind to the limit, but staying motivated by the purpose behind the climb helped me persevere.
3. You lead a group of ambitious women on the first all-women expedition of K2, the second highest peak in the world. Can you share any memorable moments?
One of the most memorable moments from the all-women K2 expedition was witnessing the team’s resilience and determination despite lack of proper facilities en-route K2. Every person seeing an All Women K2 expedition was in awe of the strength of females.
4. Broad Peak is known for its unpredictable weather and dangerous conditions. Can you share any specific moments where you felt the most at risk during the climb?
Broad Peak taught me that life isn’t about avoiding the storms but learning how to stand in them. I went there with supplement oxygen but descending it without oxygen was the utmost challenge. Coming back from the death zone with snow blindness, frost bite and no oxygen was facing life and death at the same time.
5. As the second Pakistani woman to summit Broad Peak, how do you see this achievement influencing other women and girls in Pakistan?
As the second Pakistani woman to summit Broad Peak, I hope my achievement serves as a beacon of inspiration for other women and girls in Pakistan. It shows that with determination and resilience, they can break barriers and pursue their dreams, no matter how daunting they may seem. I believe my journey will encourage more women to take up challenging pursuits, especially in fields traditionally dominated by men. It’s vital for us to support each other and foster a culture where women feel empowered to chase their ambitions, whether in mountaineering or any other sphere.
6. Can you share some insights into how you trained and prepared yourself physically and mentally for this expedition?
To prepare for Broad Peak, I focused on a balanced training regimen. Physically, I engaged in endurance runs, strength training, and technical climbing to build stamina and skill. Mentally, I practiced visualization and mindfulness techniques to enhance my focus and resilience, helping me tackle the mental challenges of high-altitude climbing. Balancing both aspects was essential for facing the rigorous demands of the expedition.
7. What advice would you give to young women in Pakistan or elsewhere who aspire to take up mountaineering or any other male-dominated adventure sports?
My advice to young women aspiring to take up mountaineering or any male-dominated adventure sport is to embrace your passion wholeheartedly. Surround yourself with supportive mentors and like-minded peers who encourage you. Don’t be afraid to start small—building skills and confidence is a gradual process. Remember that challenges are part of the journey; each step forward, no matter how small, is a victory. Lastly, believe in yourself; your determination can inspire others to follow their dreams. The mountains are waiting for you!
8. Mountaineering often requires teamwork. Could you tell us about your relationship with your climbing team, and how important it was to your success?
My relationship with my climbing team is built on trust, respect and shared goals. Climbing at a high altitude required emotional stability and support. If I talk about Manaslu, I worked with Uzair there as a team. This strengthened our relationship with a deep sense of trust, knowing that no matter what happened, we would never leave each other behind.
9. How has summiting Broad Peak changed your perspective on life or on your personal goals?
Climbing Broad Peak taught me that every challenge is an opportunity for growth and that the journey itself is as important as the summit. This experience inspires me to set higher goals and pursue my passions with renewed vigor.
10. Now that you’ve conquered Broad Peak, what’s next on your list? Do you have any future expeditions or projects lined up?
I would like to take more and more women out there for this adventure and help them summit the mountains by setting an example of resilience and grit.