Under the dappled sunlight, at an altitude of about 10,000 feet above sea level, thrive the fragrant, suede-green leaves of marjoram. Their sweet perfume blends with the glacial wind as you crush them between your fingers.
Marjoram in Pakistan? Yes, it grows alongside wild thyme, juniper, rosehip, and sea buckthorn. It’s surprising how little we know about the diverse seasonal produce our country offers. These resources often remain on the fringes of the food chain, overlooked and underappreciated. Upon this realization, I set myself a goal: to organize culinary tours and explore Pakistan’s unique ingredients. The question was, where should I begin?
Hunza. It felt like the perfect place to start.
Excitement surged through me—it was my first time visiting this breathtaking valley. I had assumed that, having seen other mountains in Pakistan, the Karakoram range would feel familiar. Oh, how wrong I was. The gargantuan scale of the Karakoram range hits you at every meandering turn of the highway. There are moments throughout the day when you stand by the river, and the enormity of that place strikes you.
So, what happens at the culinary retreat?
The goal is to understand the unique terrain, explore available ingredients, and create a menu inspired by them.
You’re signing up to witness the culinary artistry of nature in Northern Pakistan, brought to life by the hands of a skilled cook.
Nature is the greatest artist,
We are merely vessels.
The retreat typically lasts five days, with activities centered around gathering around the table, nourishing ourselves, and fostering connection. We visit farms, orchards, lakes, and engage with local artisans. A cooking class is also held on one of the days!
Currently, I’m in Karachi, sitting under the soft glow of the fading October sun, reflecting on this fleeting experience.
I’ve conducted four culinary tours in Hunza and now report back.
In the spirit of public service, I’ll now submit my findings for your consideration.
Post-Spring
Imagine walking through an orchard, where plump, red cherry clusters dangle under the bright sun. I was amazed— they looked like jewels hanging from the trees.
We picked several cherries and carried them back to the kitchen in our totes. After pitting the cherries, I used them to create a delightful compote. A compote is a mixture of fresh fruits and sugar, typically cooked briefly.
Cherry Compote Recipe
– Pitted cherries: 500g
– Sugar: 100g
– Cornstarch: 30g
Mix all the ingredients in a cold saucepan and gradually bring the heat up. Once the cornstarch has thickened, add the following:
– Lemon/Fruit Vinegar: 1-2 tablespoons
– Salt: a pinch
Cherry compote can be used for breakfast, cakes, pastries, and other desserts.
I used the compote to make a cake inspired by the cherry orchard. To add depth, I allowed the compote to ferment slightly, giving it a richer, more complex character.
I soaked a chocolate sponge with bitter coffee and layered it with the fermented cherry compote and whipped cream. I gave it a rustic finish and adorned the top with beautiful cherries, which you can see in the picture below.
Summer
Picture this: sunburst red plums and juicy, orange-blushed apricots growing sweet on trees under the summer heat. They tasted like nothing I’ve experienced before. There’s something magical about plucking fresh fruit and savoring their sweetness with every bite.
I used those apricots and plums to create cakes, crepes, and even a sauce to pair with yak meat.
One of my favorites from this season was the Apricot and Seabuckthorn Tart. I used a buttery tart shell, blind-baked until crisp and golden, then filled it with vanilla bean custard. The apricots, macerated with sugar and paired with seabuckthorn, added a light glaze and bright burst of flavor. It was the perfect summer lunch dessert.
Fall
Hunza in October feels like a warm hug. The leaves begin to change colors, and the sunlight has a tangerine glow. It’s as though you’ve stepped into a Miyazaki film. Crisp apples ripen on trees as far as the eye can see, while pumpkins rest gently on the soft earth, growing wide.
I created many fall-inspired dishes, including pumpkin focaccia, pumpkin soup with kuruth (dried mountain cheese), apple pie, and tart tatin.
The culinary retreat is a truly wholesome experience, and I’ve only just scratched the surface of what unfolds. You simply have to be there to fully understand.
This is just a snapshot, dear reader. I hope you can join someday and witness the magic.
